This sounds like a power draw issue. The 12 volt circuit on your 7-way is only designed to provide a certain amount of amps which will vary depending on the vehicle but it is usually around 20-40. If the power draw of your off road lights exceeds this then that is what would cause them to cut out. It may be best for you to just run the off road lights directly to the battery with a quick disconnect in between the trailer and tow vehicle. For quick disconnects I recommend part # PK11852... view full answer...
The Carr Light Wing Off-Road Light Mounting System # CARR167304 is a sturdily built mounting bracket that would work just fine if you drove through a car wash with brushes. It would be more likely that the lights would have an issue, but if they are off-road type lights they would be made for rougher conditions and should be totally fine as well. view full answer...
Most likely the problem is a slightly dirty trailer connector. You will need to take some fine grit sandpaper to the running light circuit of your trailer wiring harness on your vehicle and trailer to clean off any dirt or corrosion that would cause an intermittent connection.
I attached a help article on troubleshooting trailer circuits for you to check out as well. view full answer...
This is actually a fairly common issue with the Demco Stay-IN-Play # DM86VR, and there are solutions.
Since the turn signals and brake lights normally use the same wires, they use variable voltage to activate each circuit. The system is seeing a signal less than 12v and is trying to activate. What you'll need to do is reset the GFC (G-force controller) slightly to the "more" position. Then, go through the GFC set-up again which is step 12 in the instruction manual. This time, raise the... view full answer...
The blue and green lights on the Redarc Tow-Pro Elite # RED44FR and Liberty # RED24FR Brake Controllers flash while the brakes are being depressed until the controller confidently learns the exact orientation. Do understand if there is a bad power connection or the main control module is not secured and the orientation changes this will cause the controller to attempt to orientate itself constantly. Also if your controller loses power when the ignition is off this would cause the controller... view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Curt and he said it sounds like a problem with the wiring on the trailer, probably a bad ground. His advice was to make sure the trailer side connectors are clean and free of corrosion inside and out. The main connector grounds should be attached to clean and corrosion free bare metal surfaces.
The light grounds should also be attached to clean and corrosion free bare metal surfaces. If there is anything between a light ground and the metal trailer frame or if... view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Tekonsha, who tells me that if the brake controller has been properly installed, the brake controller will have nothing whatsoever to do with the ABS system of your vehicle. If the controller was hardwired into the tow vehicle (as opposed to using a plug-in connector) there's a very slight chance that if the red wire from the brake controller could've been tapped into the wrong circuit. The red wire should be tapped into the circuit coming off the brake stoplight... view full answer...
It sounds like there is a bad connection or ground or there isn't a load resistor on the running light circuit, Usually load resistors are used to cure hyper flash on a turn signal. But since LED lights draw such little power it could be that another load resistor is needed such as # DI34ZR. This is especially true if it is happening on both sides. If the issue was one side I would say there is a loose connection or bad ground. view full answer...
Trailer wiring, whether 4-pole or 7-way, typically uses a white wire as ground. On a trailer this white ground wire would usually connect to a clean bare metal spot on the frame on one end and to a wiring junction box like # 38656 on the other end.
If the trailer lights work only when the trailer is coupled to the hitch ball then this tells us that this mechanical connection between the coupler and ball is making a sort of temporary (but inadequate) ground connection between trailer and... view full answer...
Unfortunately, it sounds like there may be an issue with either the wiring or the control module on your 2006 Land Rover LR3. As you have tried the 7-Way to 4-Way/5-Way Trailer Adapter for Vehicles with Lamp-Out Sensors Towing Trailers with LEDs # C35FR as well as adding resistors with both failures to operate the lights. It only stands to reason the vehicle has something going on with it that it is not recognizing you have a trailer connected. view full answer...
Most likely the problem is corrosion in your trailer connector. Dirty pins in a connector are notorious for causing intermittent circuit function which is exactly what is going on with your setup.
Aside from that it could be a loose wire on the brake output circuit somewhere, but it sounds like you already checked that.
It could also be a loose power or ground wire for the brake controller (which based on your description sounds like a Tekonsha Voyager part # 39510).
I attached an FAQ... view full answer...
It sounds like you have a short somewhere on your running light circuit. Start off by checking out the connector on your 2014 Ford F-150 and your horse trailer and clean out any debris or corrosion.
If those look good, then the next step is to isolate which end of your towing setup is causing the problem. You can do this by using a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 to see if your pickup is sending power to the running light circuit or simply connect your F-150 to a different trailer and... view full answer...
Typically when turning on one of the light functions causes the other lights to cut out, it signals an issue with the ground connection on the trailer; the # ST6RB and # ST7RB lights both ground independently with their mounting hardware but there should be a ground wire on the trailer. I would start by checking the ground connection there and also cleaning off the trailer connectors to make sure there isn't any dirt or debris that's causing an issue.
The next thing I would check out... view full answer...
In a 4-pole wiring harness the brake and turn signals are combined into one wire, the yellow wire for the left (driver's) side and the green wire for the right (passenger's) side. Running lights, or taillights, are carried on the brown wire for both sides of the vehicle and trailer.
Since your lights do all work, just some of them illuminate dimly, chances are that the issue is localized at those specific lights. More often than not, the type of issue you describe is a result of a weak... view full answer...
It sounds to me as if you have a ground problem too. You have done all of the testing and it points to ground so I think you most likely have a light mounting bracket that is not making ground to the trailer frame. If the brackets for your tail lights are bolted to the frame, take them loose and clean all of the rust and road debris out. Make sure when you bolt them back down that they are contacting bare metal on both the frame and the light bracket and that they are tight. If your brackets... view full answer...
One possibility is that the running lights on the new trailer are simply drawing too much current and are blowing the fuses. Trailers can be equipped with either high-efficiency LED lights or standard incandescent bulbs, which draw about 10 times the power. If the new trailer has many more running lights than the boat trailer, and/or if they are incandescent types, then they may be overloading the vehicle wiring.
It is also possible that the running light wiring is pinched, has a bare... view full answer...
Without knowing exactly what was done off-road it is difficult to say what would have damaged your # AL59561. Realistically this shouldn't be a problem as long as they are properly inflated and not overloaded. However, if you were driving through heavy brush it is possible branches or other debris could penetrate/damage the bags.
Also, depending on your driving and the off-road conditions, the tongue weight and whatever weight you have in the truck bed could be amplified if you were hitting... view full answer...
Because it sounds like you're describing an intermittent issue, you're most likely dealing with a poor ground connection. It's lot likely the main trailer ground on the trailer tongue is the problem since it's only happening on one circuit, but it's worth checking to make sure the ground wire from the trailer connector is securely fastened and isn't corroded. The ground for the left turn/brake lamp is where you'll most likely find the problem. Trailer taillights either ground by their mounting... view full answer...
I spoke to my contact at Roadmaster, he said the issue with the red light showing red, braking without braking on the Roadmaster Even Brake Portable Supplemental Braking System # RM-9400 was not uncommon. He said it was the inertia switch kicking in because the motorhome is slowing down.
For the braking too hard he said your vehicle may have active braking. To check if it has active braking get in the vehicle, no keys in the ignition and motor off, and pump the brakes 5-10 times. If the... view full answer...
If you used the Reese install kit, part # RP50082-58, your hitch centerline would already be forward of the axle. I have included a link to the instructions below. The last page shows where the hitch should be in relation to the axle. If you move too far forward, you will run into clearance issues when turning.
I am wondering if the trailer is nose heavy and moving some things around in the trailer may get some of the pin weight off and reduce the weight on the axle. Hitch up the trailer... view full answer...
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